(CNN)South
Sudan is the world's youngest country, and it has witnessed immense
change since gaining independence in 2011. The promise of peace has
given way to civil war, and tribal rifts continue to run deep,
permeating political affairs. Over two million people have been displaced according to the UN, and tens of thousands killed.
Amid the tumult is the Mundari, a people who would rather get on with doing what they do best: looking after their cattle.
Meat the family
It
would be hard to find a more dedicated group of herdsmen than the tribe
who live on the banks of the Nile, north of the capital Juba. Their
entire lifestyle is geared around caring for their prized livestock, the
Ankole-Watusi, a horned breed known as "the cattle of kings."
These
cows grow up to eight feet tall, and are worth as much as $500 each.
It's no wonder the Mundari view these animals as their most valuable
assets (or that they guard them with with machine guns).
Photographer Tariq Zaidi
spent a fortnight earlier this year documenting their lives and the
devotion they show towards these animals. Zaidi has captured tribes and
indigenous people from over 30 African nations, though he was
nonetheless taken aback by the relationship between man and beast.
"It's hard to overstate the importance of cattle to the Mundari people," says Zaidi, "these animals are everything to them."
The
photographer describes how "almost every man I met wanted me to take a
picture of them with their favorite cow." Their wives and children, on
the other hand, were given short shrift.
Perhaps
this is in part due to the function and symbolism of the Ankole-Watusi.
Each bovine is so highly prized that it is rarely killed for its meat.
Instead, it is a walking larder, a pharmacy, a dowry, even a friend. It
is clear that cow is a resource maintaining not just a people, but a way
of life.
The Mundari, tall and
muscular, may "look like bodybuilders," says Zaidi, "but their diet is
pretty much milk and yogurt. That's it." Other bodily fluids have more
unlikely uses. Mundari men will squat under streams of cow urine, both
an antiseptic, Zaidi suggests, and as an aesthetic choice -- the ammonia
in the urine color the Mundari's hair orange.
Meanwhile
dung is piled high into heaps for burning, the fine peach-colored ash
used as another form of antiseptic and sunscreen by the herdsmen,
shielding them from the 115-degree heat.
The
cows, adds Zaidi, are among the world's most pampered. He says he
witnessed Mundari massaging their animals twice a day. The ash from dung
fires, as fine as talcum powder, is rubbed into the cattle's skin and
used as bedding, while ornamental tassels swat flies from the eyes of
the herd's most prestigious beasts.
Outflanking war
The
Mundari sleep among their cattle, "literally two feet away from their
favorites" says Zaidi, and guard them at the point of a gun. It's not
unreasonable for the tribe to go to these lengths.
"Rustlers
are a huge issue for them," the photographer explains. "Their cattle
are a form of currency and status symbol, and form a key part of a
family's pension or dowry. Since the end of the civil war, thousands of
men have returned to South Sudan looking for wives, which has pushed up
the 'bride price', making these animals even more precious and
increasing lethal cattle raids."
Such
raids have been deadly for the Mundari, but the effects of war are
manifold. Landmines make finding fresh pasture a dangerous lottery. When
he visited, Zaidi says the tribe were using a small island in the Nile
as a safe haven. The conflict, he adds, has the paradoxical effect of
preserving their way of life.
"The
ongoing war in South Sudan has cut off the Mundari tribe from the rest
of the world," he says. "They don't venture into the town, they stay in
the bush, and it's why their unique way of life endures."
Zaidi
says the Mundari have no taste for war and "their guns are not to kill
anyone but to protect their herd." All the Mundari want to do is take
care of their livestock, he argues, "and they will protect them at all
costs."
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